Valve Adjustment

There are no valves in this unit as it is a two stroke. The valve timing is controlled by the piston and cutaways in the cylinder. The setting for the carburettor by adjusting the H and L settings is very precise. If you take a look through the user guide there should be instructions on how to configure this item. The adjustment of the throttle cable to allow full movement probably needs adjustment. If that proves inconclusive then do an internet search for the setting up of the carburettor that you have fitted. Normally the manufacturer will give details of 'how to'

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1193020/Stihl-Br-700.html#product-BR%20550

Good Luck.

You'll need a special tool set. Actually a parts kit. It's about $13 from a dealer, and will include the special feeler gauge you need as well as the valve cover gasket, and the sealing ring for that bolt that holds on the valve cover, that P/N is 4282 007 1001. There is a second, more comprehensive sealing kit that includes the valve cover gasket, the copper sealing washer, and the special feeler gauge, but also includes the two crankcase seals, and the intake manifold to carburetor gasket as well as the muffler to cylinder gasket, that P/N is 4282 007 1010. There is an 8mm T-Handle, it's part # is 5910 890 2420. The screw on the top of the valve cover is a common T27 torx screw that you can use most STIHL screnches with. Remove the valve cover, and you will see the two rocker arms held on my two 8mm nuts. Remove the spark plug with I BELIEVE a 14mm deep socket, or the medium end of a STIHL scrench, but it may be a 15. Either way, get the piston to top dead center, and then proceed to wiggle the valves, they will be loose (hopefully), you will use the feeler gauge under the rocker arm where it contacts the top of either valve, and turn the 8mm T-Handle wrench until you feel a slight drag pulling the feeler gauge in and out. Give the flywheel behind the recoil assembly a few turns ( I should have mentioned this is much easier with the engine cover and recoil assembly removed) and revisit the valve you just adjusted, again, w/ the piston at TDC. If you feel slight drag but no binding or looseness with the feeler gauge inserted, you're ready to move to the next one. Once you're satisfied with the settings, use the new washer and gasket that came with either kit, and reinstall the valve cover. and you're done!

On a side note, I feel this series of machines (STIHL 4Mix) gets a bad rap for a lack of simple preventative maintenance. Someone who wouldn't think twice about changing the oil in their car completely disinterested in maintaining OPE that he spends hundreds, sometimes thousands of dollars on. It's a tool to be used to complete a project to either save or make money, so why not maintain your machines to continue with that very mindset? Adjusting valves and replacing fuel lines are very simple, inexpensive, and very frequenty OVERLOOKED steps anyone can perform with a little guidance, to ensure long life and productivity from any piece of OPE, not only STIHL but any 2-cycle or 4-cycle machine. Good luck with your valve adjustment!