Samsung Fridge Model No. Rb195abbp. Water Collects In The Bottom Of Drawers.

I just had my RB195 repaired. It is condensation from behind the rear panel that failed to drain due to ice that was formed in the drain channel. Certain conditions cause the ice to form and when the heater is turned on to remove any and all ice from the cooling coils and the drain area the ice in the drain area remains. The heater and the coils function just fine but the melted ice/water from coils floods out from that area rather than gravity allowing it to flow to the evaporation pan at the rear bottom of the unit. The quick fix is to unplug the Samsung for eight to ten hours. All the ice will melt and the next occasion it will function OK. When the conditions, not enough time for the heater to melt and allow the water to drain, the problem could repeat itself. The real fix is to replace the SENSOR TEMP -F DEF;PX-41C which not only turns on the heater but also has a timing factor that, when it is ON long enough, to allow the water to properly drain to the pan. If the drain line freezes it will not melt due to the distance from the heating element. All the cooling function work just fine, the defrost heating element works and allows the next cycle of cooling to continue to work, but the condensation removed from the coils cannot travel to the pan, due to this ice build-up, and it simply over flows from behind the panel that covers and protects all this stuff. I hope this helps someone. It cost me $20.00 for the part and $100.00 for the service call. I'm satisfied. The bad news is the average old school refrigerator man can not see the high tech Samsung circuitry. It is too deep for the old school boys. Samsung is good; not all repair people are.

The draining tube from the automatic defrost system on the rear wall of the fridge freezes and fails the drain the water from the defrost cycle.  There is a thermostat that varies the time the defrost heater is "ON" to remove the frost from the cooling fins.  A replacement, about $20.00, may correct the problem but the quick/free fix is to unplug the Samsung for a day or two and it should thaw out and drain OK.  You can easily remove the plastic cover on the rear wall and see what's happening.  It feels like you are going to break it but it comes off.  The first time this happened to my Samsung I was not sure the cover came off and I spent my $90.00 service call and the $20.00 part to learn this.  It happened again and the service guy came back, no charge this time, and we ran hot water thru the drain tube.  I added some salt to the water and did it myself when it happened again after a couple of months.  I now know this will be a routine every few months.  I added a silicone bath to that drain tube and it's OK for the past few months.  The second time you do this it takes about ten minutes; DIY, no charge.  It's a good unit and well designed but they had the insulation R factor so good it holds the chilled/frozen water too long.  It should have been routed outside the box itself.  I'll keep mine for a few years.  It's a good box.  Separate but similar problem is the freezing of the ICE MAKER feed line.  The ICE MAKER cycles just fine but gets no water in the tray and makes no ice.  I'll report on that after I turn the whole thing off when I'm on vacation later this year.  My guess is it will work OK after the thaw and will continue OK if used enough.  Hope this helps someone.

KO, here is answer three.  My last post, just three months ago, simplied the routine to get this fridge to drain the "defrost water" that many of us are all too familiar with.  Today (you can see the date) I did it again.  Same problem/same fix.  My routine is now down to 10 minutes.  That's the good news; bad news is the fact that it has only been three months sinceI last did this.  I'm considering drilling a 3/8 inch hole through the back wall of this unit and running a new drain line OUT SIDE THE BOX to the evaporation pan.  3/8 plastic tubing should do it.  If I can find a safe place within this area to drill this hole I'll do it and report back here.  Samsung specs are hard to find and I still trying to find where to drill said hole.  Wish me luck.  Later.  Ken,  Erie, PA

KO again. . .  Now it's August and can not find specs to allow me to drill the hole mentioned above.  So, I snaked a copper wire, bare 12 gauge wire, through the drain tube; yes, all the way from the cooling fins behind that plastic shield into the evaporation tray in the bottom of the unit.  I coiled the wire around the heat exchanger, that radiator looking thing near the fan, to pick up the heat to allow the copper wire to get and stay warm.  I did the same thing on the top end of the wire.  I laid it near the "defrost heater element" to pick up that heat in the same way.  I needed about 6 inches of wire on the top end and about 15 inches of wire on the bottom.  I did that four weeks ago and it's OK so far.  Hope this helps someone.  From what I hear the Samsung fix is a replacement of a bunch of stuff at a cost of $200.00 to $300.00.  Not worth it for this ill conceived piece of junk. 

 

 

I have the same problem although with a different model and I just called the Samsung Service Centre before the warranty expires in 2 weeks. They asked if I have turned on the POWER FREEZE or POWER COOL function, I did not use these functions. It means there is leak somewhere in the system and it has to be serviced and part(s) replaced. So call Samsung if you have the same problem without delay.