Fdr30s1 Dehumidifier.

Generally, most humidifiers work best between 60 -80 degrees . There is a model that is called a Low Temp model, that's designed for low temperatures in basements.

As far as your problem is concerned, there are 5 basic, yet solvable reasons for what you described. Please pay particular attention to numbers 1 & 2.

1. The humidity extraction level is set to HIGH. Lower it to 32-35%. If you have a manually controlled unit, set the Manual Control Knob to Maximum.

2. Air intake filter is dirty or clogged. Turn unit OFF, & Unplug the Unit, before removing to inspect & clean it, if necessary. If washed,  allow filter to completely dry before reinstalling. DO NOT operate  the unit without the filter.

3. Obstructed air flow. Maintain a minimum of 12 to 18" of clear air space around the entire unit.

4. Cooling coils are dirty and need to be cleaned. Use warm water & dish washing liquid to clean the coils. Rinse and wipe dry. Apply a light coating of WD40 to the coils.

5. Ambient air temperature at floor level is between 40 - 60 degrees.  dehumidifiers do not work well between those temperatures  (Unless, you have a Low Temp Unit). This applies mainly towhere the air temperature at floor level is colder than at shoulder level  in basement applications. Raising the unit up off the floor, onto a sturdy table, counter top, etc, that can handle the weight of the unit, plus a full tank of water, will usually resolve this problem.

If none of the above solves the problem, it may be a case of the compressor needs to be recharged with refrigerant gas or that the humidity condenser sensor has failed. These things usually occur in units that are 5 years old or older. It's rare in a unit younger than that. But, it can happen.

The dehumidifiers are designed so that they drain from the drip tray to the bucket occurs from the continuous drain connection. As long as a hose is not connected, it should drain directly to the bucket. When you connect a hose, the bucket is by-passed. Sometimes leaks can occur in the hose connection and/or washer that will drip into the bucket shutting down the unit. The hole in the drip tray is an overflow port that is supposed to come into play only if the continuous drain hose gets plugged. The hole has a lip that causes the water to normally be directed to the continuous drain, but allow it to drain to the bucket if the hose is blocked. This all depends on the unit being placed on a flat level floor.

Check that the rubber washer for the female threaded end of the drain hose had not somehow gotten deformed and blocked the hole that water normally would discharge from into the hose when continuous running was desired. Also you may tilt the unit slightly toward the back - something like a window air conditioner may need to be slightly tilted in order to get the condensate to flow to the drain hole. We have also found that the type of hoses used can have an effect as well. The larger the hose the better the water will flow, some of the smaller hoses can cause a dam effect, meaning that the water can not make it over the lip and will go into the bucket as a result.

I hope that this information is helpful to you!

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Online Outreach Specialist