Has Anyone Had Issues With All Power In This Unit?

A microwave can be dead for many reasons. It may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille or on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches. If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven. If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open. Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again. When checking TCOs or thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed. If the cavity thermostat needs to be checked or replaced you'll need to pull the oven from the wall, in which case you can download GE owner's manuals and installation instructions here. If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor. If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer. If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount. If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse. You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again. If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good. There should be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing. You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams by entering your full model number here. Once you have the part numbers, though, I would suggest ordering parts here at a much lower cost.

The problem may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille or on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches. If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

When checking TCOs or thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed. If the cavity thermostat needs to be checked or replaced you'll need to pull the oven from the wall, in which case you can download the owner's manual, installation instructions, and CAD drawings.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again. If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

There should be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing. You can find an exploded view diagram here. Once you have the part numbers, though, I would suggest ordering parts here at a much lower cost.

Hope this helps!