My Craftsman 536.270320 Will Not Start...nothing, Not Even A Turn Of The Engine

WHAT CAUSES THIS PROBLEM IS THE STATOR UNDER THE FLYWHEEL NEEDS CLEANING.  TRACKING DOWN THIS PROBLEM RUNS 2 TO 4 HOURS AND HAVE REPLACEMENT PARTS HANDY IF YOU CAN.  WHEN DIRT OR RUST BUILD UP THEY REDUCE THE CURRENT IN THE DC OR AC SYSTEM DEPENDING ON YOUR MODEL.  THIS REDUCED CURRENT TAXES THE STARTING SELINOID AND STARTER AND BUILDS UP EXCESSIVE HEAT IN THE CHARGING SYSTEM OFTEN RUINING THE ELECTRIC COMPONENTS.  SO YOU MUST START FROM THE BATTERY CHECKING AND REPLACING DEFECTIVE OR RUSTED PARTS ALL THE WAY UP TO THE STATOR UNDER THE FLYWHEEL.  DOWNLOAD A COPY SEARCHING GOOGLE FOR YOUR PARTICULAR ENGINE USING THE MODEL NUMBER WHICH IS USUALLY LOCATED ON THE COVER OR STAMPED INTO THE VALVE COVER.  USE CARE WHEN REMOVING THE FLYWHEEL SO AS NOT TO DAMAGE THE SHAFT OR THE THREADS ON THE CRANKSHAFT.  INSTALL A NEW FLYWHEEL KEY IF IT SHOWS WEAR TO CORRECT THE TIMING BACK TO THE ORIGINAL POSITIONS.  WIRES LEADING TO THE STARTING SELINOID NEED CAREFUL INSPECTION.  MAKE SURE TO REMOVE AND CLEAN THE NEGATIVE WIRE THAT GROUNDS THE BATTERY.  CHECK ALL FUSES AND SAFETY SWITCHES (REPLACE THESE IF THERE ARE ANY DOUBTS ABOUT PROPER FUNCTIONING).  THE COIL (SOMETIMES LISTED AS THE IGNITION MODULE) CAN BY ITSELF BE THE CULPRIT SO CHECK THE CONTINUITY USING A FLUKE TESTER AFTER YOU'VE REMOVED IT FROM THE BLOCK.  THERE SHOULD BE NO RESISTENCE FROM ONE HALF TO THE OTHER.  REMOVE ANY RUST THATS BUILT UP ON THE CONTACTS AND INSPECT FOR RUST ON THE FLYWHEEL MAGNET.  CHECK FOR A BAD KILL (STOP) SWITCH AND REPLACE THE COIL IF OLDER THAN 6 YEARS OR IF THE MOWER HAS BEEN STORED OUTSIDE.  USE WATERPROOF GREASE TO COAT THE EXTERIOR OF EXPOSED ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS SUCH AS THE POST ON THE STARTING SELINOID.  REMOVE ANY DIRT FROM WIRES AND CLOSELY INSPECT THE WIRES UNDER THE DASH COVER FOR RUSTY WIRES OR DISCONNECTED WIRES AND CHECK USING A FLUKE TESTER THE WIRES THAT EXIT THE IGNITION SWITCH (WHERE YOU PUT THE KEY). USE A FLASHLIGHT TO CHECK THE IGNITION SWITCH FOR RUST OR OXIDATION.  IF YOU HAVE NOT CHANGED THE STARTING SELINOID FOR MORE THAN 3 YEARS YOU SHOULD DO SO.  THIS PART IS ESPECIALLY SUSEPTABLE TO HIGH HEAT DAMAGE DUE TO THE DIRECT VOLTAGE COMING FROM THE BATTERY.  IF YOU HAVE NOT REPLACED THE IGNITION MODULE IN 4 YEARS YOU SHOULD DO SO.  THIS PROBLEM IS NOT ISOLATED TO THIS PARTICULAR MOWER AND IS DUE TO A LACK OF PERFECT STORAGE OR TOO LITTLE MAINTENENCE.  I HAVE SAVED OVER 9 MOWERS USING THIS METHOD OF INSPECTING AND UPDATING PARTS OF THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM BASED ON THE FACT THAT MOST MOWERS REQUIRE PARTS REPLACEMENT EVERY 3 YEARS.  YOU ARE ALSO FIGHTING THE ELEMENTS WHERE HIGH HUMIDITY OR MOISTURE ARE PREVAILENT.  THIS ALL SOUNDS LIKE A LOT OF WORK AND A PAIN BUT IT IS CERTAINLY CHEAPER THAN A NEW MOWER WHICH IF YOU TREAT IT THE SAME WILL SUFFER THE SAME.  JUST EMAIL ME IF YOU HAVE A SPECIFIC PROBLEM.  IF IT CLICKS ONCE YOU GO THRU ALL THESE STEPS AND IT STILL WON'T START THEN USE THESE SAME SORT OF INSPECTION STEPS WITH THE FUEL SYSTEM (CARBURETOR).  CARBURETORS TEND TO SCARE PEOPLE BECAUSE THEY SEEM COMPLEX BUT THEY ARE ACTUALLY VERY SIMPLE TO CLEAN AND FIX AND JUST LIKE THE ELECTRIC SYSTEM RUST AND DIRT TEND TO BE 90% PERCENT OF THE PROBLEM.  BE SURE TO STUDY THOROUGHLY EVERY PART BEFORE YOU REMOVE IT AND FIGURE OUT WHAT IT'S FUNCTION IS EVEN IF YOU NEED TO READ THE BOOK OR LOOK IT UP ONLINE.   YOU'RE NEVER TOO OLD TO LEARN AND MIGHT ACTUALLY HAVE SOME FUN THINKING ABOUT THE ENGINEERING THAT GOES INTO THESE SIMPLE BUT FINICKY MACHINES.  NOW GO TO IT!